Rust develops because of trapped moisture, road salt, failing underseal and years of contamination building up underneath the car. We begin by exposing what’s really there using dry ice blasting. We stabilise any corrosion correctly. Then we apply the right protection system for how the vehicle is used so it remains preserved long term.
We remove dirt, oil, failing underseal and surface corrosion from the underbody, carefully returning it as close as possible to a clean factory finish. The object is to reveal the true condition of the metal beneath so it can be properly assessed and treated.
Once exposed, any deep active corrosion is treated using appropriate rust stabilisers or converters. We do not seal over rust. We neutralise it correctly, following strict curing procedures before moving forward.
With the surface clean and stabilised, we apply the protection system chosen for the vehicle – based on how it’s driven, stored and maintained. Whether that’s a clear Bilt Hamber wax, durable Dinitrol underbody coating or a ceramic system, the objective is the same. Seal out moisture and salt. Preserve the structure. Protect the car properly for the long term.
Every vehicle is different. Some require light preservation. Others need corrective stabilisation before protection can be applied safely. We assess first. We test where necessary. We recommend based on condition. The objective is long-term preservation, not a quick visual improvement. That’s why our Full Preservation Packages include our written Preservation Guarantee – because when rust is assessed properly, stabilised correctly and protected appropriately, long-term results follow.
Rust doesn’t stop once it starts. When moisture and salt sit beneath dirt, underseal or failing coatings, corrosion continues to develop unseen. Simply applying fresh wax or underseal over active rust can trap that process underneath. That’s why preparation matters. Dry ice blasting allows us to remove contamination without adding water or abrasive media. Once the surface is exposed, we can identify what is stable, what needs treatment, and what should not be coated. Correct preparation determines how long protection lasts.
Rust forms when iron and steel react with oxygen and moisture, creating iron oxide. This electrochemical reaction accelerates in the presence of salt and contamination, which is why vehicles in the UK are particularly vulnerable during winter months.
Modern cars are built with protective coatings, primers and factory underseal. However, once those coatings become damaged, thin, or contaminated, moisture can reach the bare metal underneath – and corrosion begins.
Over time, untreated corrosion spreads beneath paint and coatings, weakening structural components and compromising long-term integrity.
Environmental Exposure: High humidity, rainfall and coastal air increase airborne salt content, which significantly accelerates corrosion. Vehicles stored outdoors are exposed to constant moisture cycles.
Road Salt & Winter Driving: Grit and salt used on UK roads lower the freezing point of water but dramatically increase corrosion rates. Saltwater acts as an electrolyte, speeding up the oxidation process on exposed metal surfaces.
Trapped Moisture & Failing Underseal: Old underseal can crack, lift or separate from the metal beneath. When moisture becomes trapped between coating and steel, corrosion progresses unseen – often spreading under otherwise intact surfaces.
Physical Damage & Stone Chips: Impacts from road debris can chip paint, primer and factory coatings, exposing bare steel. Even minor damage can become a corrosion starting point if not addressed.
Oil & Contamination Build-Up: Heavy grime, oil residue and road debris trap moisture against metal surfaces. This is particularly common in wheel arches, subframes, suspension components and chassis rails.
• Wheel arches and inner arch liners
• Underbody floor pans and chassis rails
• Subframes and suspension mounting points
• Brake lines and fuel lines
• Sills and jacking points
• Engine bay seams and exposed brackets
Whether your car is already showing signs of corrosion or you want to prevent rust before it starts, the principle is the same: Rust spreads when moisture, salt and contamination are allowed to sit against unprotected metal. In the UK climate – with road salt, damp storage and fluctuating temperatures – corrosion can develop underneath even well-maintained vehicles. Stopping rust properly involves three key stages:
1. Remove Contamination Properly
Dirt, oil, failing underseal and salt trap moisture against metal. These must be removed thoroughly using a non-abrasive method such as dry ice blasting to expose clean, sound metal without damaging factory finishes.
2. Stabilise Existing Corrosion
If corrosion is present, any loose material must first be removed. Dry Ice Blasting is perfect for removing surface rust. Any remaining corrosion should then be neutralised and stabilised to prevent further progression. The surface should be properly prepared before any protective coating is applied, as sealing over active rust will not provide long-term protection.
3. Apply Long-Term Protection
Once the metal is clean and stable, a suitable rust protection system (clear wax, cavity wax, underbody coating or ceramic protection) should be applied. Which system you use should be based on how the vehicle is used and stored. For vehicles that are already solid underneath, early protection is recommended to preserve originality and prevent future deterioration.
For vehicles showing early corrosion, proper preparation and stabilisation can prevent the problem from escalating. Long-term rust prevention isn’t about covering it up – it’s about preparing it correctly and protecting it properly.
Once corrosion has been removed and stabilised, protection is selected based on the vehicle’s condition and how it will be used. We do not apply heavy underseal over contamination or active rust. Every protection system below is applied only to properly prepared surfaces to ensure performance and longevity.
Dry ice blasting is one of the most effective methods for preparing a car’s underbody for rust treatment and corrosion protection.
Unlike pressure washing, steam cleaning, or abrasive media blasting, dry ice blasting removes contamination without introducing water or damaging the underlying metal. This makes it ideal for classic cars, performance vehicles, and well-preserved factory finishes.
It does not grind metal away like sandblasting. Instead, it lifts dirt, oil, loose corrosion, failing underseal, and salt deposits from the surface – leaving clean, dry metal ready for proper rust stabilisation and protection.
For vehicles in the UK climate, where moisture and road salt accelerate corrosion, preparation is everything. Poor preparation leads to trapped contamination beneath underseal – which often makes rust worse over time.
Dry ice blasting ensures corrosion is exposed and properly assessed before any protection system is applied.
Dry ice blasting removes road salt deposits, oil and grease contamination, loose surface rust, failing underseal, bitumen coatings and dirt trapped in seams and overlaps. By lifting contamination without abrasion or water, it reveals the true condition of the metal beneath – which is essential for proper rust treatment and long-term corrosion protection.
Unlike sandblasting or aggressive media blasting, which remove rust by grinding the surface, dry ice blasting is non-abrasive. It does not thin the metal, strip factory coatings unnecessarily, embed grit, or force repainting where it isn’t needed. Instead, it cleans and exposes while preserving sound OEM finishes, making it particularly suitable for classic cars, collector vehicles, low-mileage examples and preservation-focused builds.
Because dry ice blasting introduces no water and produces no secondary blasting waste, it creates a clean, dry surface ready for rust stabilisation, primer, underseal, cavity wax or ceramic underbody protection. If deeper corrosion is present, it is stabilised and neutralised correctly after cleaning – not simply sealed over.
The result is proper surface preparation, which is the foundation of durable underbody rust protection in UK conditions.
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